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Thoughts on this placement

One Day Hero

20-May-2011
8:41:59 PM

That hex looks totally shithouse! Why do people believe in miracles? Just cause the sling is facing backwards, it doesn't magically generate some force towards the back of the crack!

Its holding (just like a normal nut) cause the bottom corners are hooked on little nubbins.................better hope the rock is strong :/


IdratherbeclimbingM9

20-May-2011
8:51:08 PM

On 20/05/2011 One Day Hero wrote:
>That hex looks totally shithouse! Why do people believe in miracles? Just
>cause the sling is facing backwards, it doesn't magically generate some
>force in towards the back of the crack!
>
>Its holding (just like a normal nut) cause the bottom corners are hooked
>on little nubbins.................better hope the rock is strong :/

I tend to agree with that.
~> Even if strong (limestone?), ... it looks greased up with chalk!

simey

20-May-2011
11:26:48 PM

On 20/05/2011 nmonteith wrote:
>On 19/05/2011 simey wrote:
>>we certainly had a difference of opinion when it came to protection
>
>Tell us more Simey.

That's pretty funny Neil. I won't go into every detail, but happy to explain some of the moves.

patto

21-May-2011
5:37:48 AM

On 20/05/2011 One Day Hero wrote:
>That hex looks totally shithouse! Why do people believe in miracles? Just
>cause the sling is facing backwards, it doesn't magically generate some
>force towards the back of the crack!
>
>Its holding (just like a normal nut) cause the bottom corners are hooked
>on little nubbins.................better hope the rock is strong :/

That magically generated force does exist. I often grasp a hex with the sling pointing up and then pull down to levitate myself up the climb.


shortman

22-May-2011
5:44:21 PM

On 20/05/2011 useful wrote:

>Agreed. Who in their right mind uses hexes these days?

Climbers. Specifically climbers who like crap trad.

Smiles

Duncan

22-May-2011
8:23:05 PM

On 20/05/2011 simey wrote:
>That's pretty funny Neil. I won't go into every detail, but happy to explain
>some of the moves.

Hot.

There are 26 messages in this topic.