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Topic Date User

Self equalising anchor 1-Aug-2008 At 6:18:01 PM foreverabumbly

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On 31/07/2008 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:

>but from posts above, it sounds like he's using/testing a cordalette on
>two pieces? rather than three?? and in a vertical alignment rather than
>spaced randomly?

My bad, the two strand cordalette test was purely for testing shock loading, and the vertical alignment was an example to show the finding of more tests. I tryed to summeries a series of tests in only two points. You wont regret buying the newer edition.

I agree though, Im not going to stop using my cordelette, the results that Long and co have just given me a greater undersanding of how they work, and I I can best improve my anchors.

You dont need an anchor that can hold 3 trucks when all its holding is one person on a top belay. a two truck holdable anchor may be substandard, but it can still hold more than the load that people will put on them. At the end your anchor is only a good as the gear you clip it too.