Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found
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Topic
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Date |
User
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Self equalising anchor |
30-Jul-2008 At 12:46:07 AM |
foreverabumbly
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Message |
Tests were done when a two armed self equalising anchor was rigged so that the shortest arm failed. when the load transfered onto the longer arm (shockloading it) it experienced no significantload multiplication. in terms of fall factors it reached a consistant fall factor of 1. If the climber is on a dynamic rope then this will be reduced substantialy.
"This series of testing demonstrates conclusively that no catastrophic shock loading and no load multiplication occur as a result of the extention"(Long, 2006 pg 191)
Though this doesnt stop you falling of the edge if the extention drags you off. It is also recommended that limiter knots always be used. |
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