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Topic Date User

Self equalising anchor 28-Jul-2008 At 7:16:05 PM Tris

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Well, IdratherbeclimbingM9 answered all the questions correctly, full marks :) .

>>If so could the knot be closer to the 'biner in the middle or will that mitigate the effect of the sliding x too much?
>Entirely dependant on the anticipated forces it is likely to encounter. The limiting knot/s can be placed as close to the sliding x as you want, provided you have enough sling material left over to tie the knot/s!

M9 is right on this, but another thing to consider that, as you said in your initial comment, putting the knot closer to the biner will limit how far the sliding X can slide. This will limit how much it can move around to compensate for a climber moving from left to right a lot.

>Interesting to see how others set a belay at that ledge on Bard.
>I did not bother with the sliding x in that location myself, as I regarded
>it as a straight-forward type of belay location with good/sound placements.
>If it is the large ledge I am thinking of, then this belay is a fair way
>back from the top of the previous pitch

Your right, the anchor is very staight-foward and there was not any overriding reason to use the sliding X. I did so because I have been working with sliding X's for a while to familiarise myself with them and I saw a perfect opportunity to use them here (it did not take longer to set up than a normal anchor).

>Post edit:
>Further comment on the picture posted by tris.
>The centre piece of pro appears to be on it's own sling connected to the
>sliding-x of the rope sling? The inverted loop (ie the 'x' part of the
>sliding x), is not obvious?

All the pieces are joined by 1 cordalette, so they are all the same sling. It's just the crap'ness of the photo that makes it appear that way. If there was another sling involved there I would think that it would make the anchor really hard to equalise.

Tris