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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Topic Date User
Daisy chains 27-Mar-2008 At 12:43:08 PM deadbudgy
>I set up my daisy using a second bener to shorten it, have from the start.
>A lot of free climbers, especially newer ones, are not aware of what a
>"Screemer" is, so they are not tuned into bar tacks tearing to absorb energy
>in a fall. And for what it's worth, short of a block falling on you and
>ripping you off your anchor, the only thing that can generate that much
>force is a factor 2 fall (a fall that is twice the distance than the amount
>of rope you have out) with no directional on the anchor (just belaying
>from your harness). In this senario a PAS will not afford any energe absorption,
>shock loading the anchor with upwards of 6+ KN or more!
>The proper use of any piece of gear is essential. Remember Metolius is
>into selling gear, and climbers are becoming more afluant, with more disposible
>income. Your climbing rope is your best attachment point, and your daisy
>is just to fine tune the length from the anchor. I resently saw a home
>made adjustable daisy made out of 7mm perlon, or you could make one from
>a sewn runner with a few knots. There's more than one right way, find a
>right way, know how and why it's right and make it your own.
>Remember Climbing is fun.....only different!

You say the proper use of gear is essential. Are daisy chains designed to tear and absorb shock load like a Screemer? My impression was they were designed for taking static loads only. If this is not the case then a daisy chain and a PAS are two completely different things. How do you know that the webbing won't be damaged when the bar tacks rip if it hasn't been designed and tested for this purpose by BD? There is no mention of this in the document it came with.
I used my daisy chain when I needed to attach myself to the rock, not to set up a belay. If the second is not leading through then the climbing rope can't be used to attach to anchors, in which case slings are used and not the daisy chain.

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