IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>It depends on how you are set up.
>
>If you are clipped in short to a pocket in order to take slack out of
>the system, then should that pockets stitching tear open due some unforseen
>force applied to it you are still retained by the next pocket!
I set up my daisy using a second bener to shorten it, have from the start.
A lot of free climbers, especially newer ones, are not aware of what a "Screemer" is, so they are not tuned into bar tacks tearing to absorb energy in a fall. And for what it's worth, short of a block falling on you and ripping you off your anchor, the only thing that can generate that much force is a factor 2 fall (a fall that is twice the distance than the amount of rope you have out) with no directional on the anchor (just belaying from your harness). In this senario a PAS will not afford any energe absorption, shock loading the anchor with upwards of 6+ KN or more!
The proper use of any piece of gear is essential. Remember Metolius is into selling gear, and climbers are becoming more afluant, with more disposible income. Your climbing rope is your best attachment point, and your daisy is just to fine tune the length from the anchor. I resently saw a home made adjustable daisy made out of 7mm perlon, or you could make one from a sewn runner with a few knots. There's more than one right way, find a right way, know how and why it's right and make it your own.
Remember Climbing is fun.....only different!
~JP |