The safety margin is much smaller than people think
Take your 3000 kg rope,
reduce that by 40% because of the the knot = 1800 kg
give the rope some wear (minor damage to the sheath and a bit of git in the core) 25%= 1350 kg
You have an 80 kg climber, with a 2.3 factor fall (UIAA standard) = 184kg
Safety margin = 7.3
7.3 is fine, but if you're doing a rescue or the rope is over a sharp rock when you take the fall, that safety factor is much lower. |