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Topic Date User

How strong do you think placements are? 30-Aug-2007 At 8:27:29 PM rolsen

Message

On 24/08/2007 mikl law wrote:
>Overzealous belayer leads to increased forces for sure macciza
>
>If the belayer takes in as (or before) you start to fall, and you are
>just above gear, there can be a straight outwards force on the gear. In
>a short fall, as was pointed out above, there can be a 45 degrees down
>and outwards force. This combined with a bit of rope shake, can flick out
>a lot of pieces. (I'm particularly thinking cams on slick rock) (when the
>forces revert to straight down they rotate inot that position, which can
>also flip them out).

I think belayers are like footy umpires if you need them to do a perfect job then you're in big trouble. The only times I get shitty with my belayer is when I'm struggling and the only time I get shitty with the umpires are when the pies are in trouble.

Having said that this thread is a good one, I must admit I often place a "temporary" wire below crux moves that I know isn't bombproof but I feel will protect the next few moves, thinking that the force will be downward rather than having a sideward pull. I then try to place a "bombproof" piece when I can.

I guess any conversation about good belying practices is worthwhile.