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Topic Date User

Grigri for Lefties? 21-Dec-2006 At 1:22:38 PM Breezy

Message

On 21/12/2006 Organ Pipe wrote:
>On 21/12/2006 Breezy wrote:
>...if he was using an atc i would have
>>sustained far less serious injury due to the 'non-dynamic' belay he gave
>>me.
>
>Can you elaborate some more for me? I can picture your situation, having
>the device lock, and if he had not given you much slack, the arrest would
>have been sharp, but with an atc (which I have two of) doesn't your belayer
>try to lock off as sharpy as possible during a fall anyway? I dont like
>rope burn so try to minimise rope movement through the device during a
>fall anyway.
>
>When you refer to an atc giving a 'more dynamic' belay, is this what you
>mean? allowing a bit of rope to slip through the atc during a fall?

Exactly - the atc allows for some slip - ie a natural dynamic belay, the gri gri cams down on the rope and just stops you dead.

Breezy - did some gear pull or something? I thought GriGris generally weren't used for belaying a leader on trad routes because of their non-dynamic belay (probably my gumbiness, but I don't really see how you'd give a dynamic belay with a GriGri... unless it involves jumping up in the air or something).

It was a sport route, not sure why you thought i was referring to a trad route (they dont have those in the blueys :P) You can give a dynamic belay with a gri gri, jumping whilst the leader is falling has this effect.

Someone can probably articulate that better than me for you, so you understand what i mean.