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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Topic Date User
SRENE anchors may go the way of the dinosaur 9-Mar-2006 At 5:42:55 PM shmalec
Message
given that the rope must have stretched a fair bit to develope enough load to fail one of your pieces, the "shock" load would not be a shock load in the normal sense of energy absorbtion of a falling weight. I expect the rope would retract when the anchor extends, load up the next piece in the anchor, followed by a second small drop by the climber. So from that point of view, I don't think the shock loading issue is all that big. What I don't like about the sliding X is that you are reliant on only one sling and 2 pieces. It is also easy to mess up the twist if you're not careful with it. I also find that if you are careful with the cordollete direction you can get pretty good equalisation.
Someone needs to invent a reasonably high strength low stiffness anchor chord and all this would be simple.

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