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Shoes for Buffalo

bones

23-Aug-2022
7:55:41 AM

Hi all. I've been climbing at Buffalo a lot more lately. Interested in what kind of climbing shoes you've found work best on the granite slabs, crystals and edges. Soft shoes for more surface contact or harder shoes for making the most of the crystals and small edges?
Thanks

ajfclark

23-Aug-2022
8:06:36 AM

I loved my five ten anasazi biancos for slabbing. My five ten grandstones for things like angels. Both have a firmer rubber.

I remember HB telling me one day that he liked to round the edges off a new pair of shoes because that edge was thinner so more likely to flex.

dan_b

26-Aug-2022
9:21:44 AM

Katana Velcro’s

IdratherbeclimbingM9

26-Aug-2022
10:11:47 AM

Dunlop volleys.
;-)

sbm

30-Aug-2022
8:44:09 AM

I've heard good reviews from seppos of the La Sportiva Genius with the "no edge" toe for granite slab climbing. Looks like that matches up with HB's wisdom which is a good sign.

White Trash

27-Sep-2022
2:15:26 AM

What are these shoes of which you speak?
Purists go barefoot!

One Day Hero

1-Oct-2022
3:23:25 PM

I've gone back and forth a bit over the years between softer shoes sized tight and stiffer shoes sized slightly less tight.

Currently in the latter phase with Scarpa Maestros half a size bigger than super tight fit. They took a couple of months to soften up a bit and I like them with the rubber worn down pretty thin. Big John resoled them with probably the last batch of C4 which will ever come to Australia, which I feel is still the best rubber for granite.

I think they're the equal best slab shoe I've ever had. Really like them. In cracks, there's no contest. Hands down best crack shoe I've ever owned.

The caveat is that these are high volume shoes. If you fit things like Katanas and Anasazis, your feet will probably be swimming in them. Most of my skinny foot friends wear TC pros on granite and they give similar reviews (although the break in period is longer and it seems even more critical to not size them too tight).

I don't know anybody who wears Geniuses on sharp Aussie granite. Surely would get chewed to bits after a couple of pitches.

There are 7 messages in this topic.