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Topic Date User

Belaying the leader directly off the anchor. 12-Sep-2020 At 5:28:28 AM cragrat

Message

On 5-Aug-2012 Macciza wrote:
>I find it hard to believe that people can't see the reasoning and use's
>of this system.
>I have certainly used a variation on this theme to avoid massive uplift
>and pinning with Zac taking huge falls.
>And the 'we Aussie guides know our stuff' thing suggests a bit of xenophobia
>. . .
>What would the Guides in Europe and Canada know better than us . . .
>
>Look past the presentation problems etc and look at the core idea instead.
>There are certainly cases where a 'Fixed Point Belay' (whatever configuration)
>is good.
>
>I'm also amazed at how many people seemed to have missed the point of
>the exercise.
>Or who seem to have misunderstood the system in talking of shock-loading
>etc.
>Or their analysis of potential failure modes compared to a 'proper? system'?
>
>Anyway I appreciate the system and the reasoning and will certainly try
>it out . . .
>

I'm with you and don't understand either. It's not about trad anchors. As I see it, it is more about the fact that you don't necessarily need "equalisation" as traditionally espoused.