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Topic Date User
Shockloading is bullshit 9-May-2020 At 7:00:31 PM IdratherbeclimbingM9
On 2-May-2020 Olbert wrote:
>The fact that your fall was more than FF2 has very little to do with the
>force generated. The length you fell does. You'd generate twice the force
>from a two metre fall as on a one metre fall regardless of the length of
>your fifi.
>My original contention is that the amount of force generated in a "shock
>loading" situation, is very much smaller than the amount of force generated
>in any drop test done by DMM where they recommend never to attach to an
>anchor with dynema. I think a much more apt test would be doing an FF2
>on a recent cadaver...though that might be a bit grizzly/unethical. Maybe
>someone has invented crash test dummies which mimic the human body?
There’s a certain amount of logic to your contention, but I think that you’re minimising the role of time-factor involved in force attenuation.
This is where zypers (as gordoste uses), dynamic instead of static materials, and incorporating the lead rope into belays, etc, have huge benefits in saving broken bodies and buggered gear or belays!

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