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Topic Date User

Shockloading is bullshit 6-May-2020 At 7:23:38 AM Olbert

Message

On 4-May-2020 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 4-May-2020 Olbert wrote:
>>When not swinging leads, untying and retying is pretty faffy and involves
>>the use of slings anyway. Why not just use slings to build the belay
>and
>>coil the rope in a way that won't snag when belaying the other direction?
>
>You can just do that, but the situations where it doesn't work very well
>include;
>-High anchor and you want to sit on a ledge rather than half hanging from
>your slightly too short slings.
>-Belay placements spread out all over the place, and you can't reach with
>slings (common at Araps)
>-Belay placements at the back of a wide ledge, and you want to belay at
>the edge where you can see your second (also common at Araps).
>

Yup - and in those cases, I often use the rope. Occasionally, I deal with not sitting on the edge.

>The situations where you can't rig with the rope include:
>-61m pitch on a 60m rope and your second won't simulclimb.
>-That's the only one.
>
>I agree that in "multipitch guiding situations" rigging with slings is
>the way to go.

I often seem to be in 'guiding' mode when multipitching.