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Topic Date User

Shockloading is bullshit 4-May-2020 At 9:23:13 PM One Day Hero

Message

On 4-May-2020 Olbert wrote:
>When not swinging leads, untying and retying is pretty faffy and involves
>the use of slings anyway. Why not just use slings to build the belay and
>coil the rope in a way that won't snag when belaying the other direction?

You can just do that, but the situations where it doesn't work very well include;
-High anchor and you want to sit on a ledge rather than half hanging from your slightly too short slings.
-Belay placements spread out all over the place, and you can't reach with slings (common at Araps)
-Belay placements at the back of a wide ledge, and you want to belay at the edge where you can see your second (also common at Araps).

The situations where you can't rig with the rope include:
-61m pitch on a 60m rope and your second won't simulclimb.
-That's the only one.

I agree that in "multipitch guiding situations" rigging with slings is the way to go.