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Topic Date User

Shockloading is bullshit 4-May-2020 At 9:50:02 AM Olbert

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On 3-May-2020 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 2-May-2020 phillipivan wrote:
>>Block leading and the possibility of rope stretching pitch lengths (to
>>and past the point of necessitated simul climbing) are the reasons to
>not
>>use the rope in the anchor.
>
>Could you clarify how A leads to B here? Whenever I've ended up simulclimbing,
>step 1 is to disassemble the belay (regardless of the anchoring method).
>The block leading thing is a bit more valid, but you can just switch rope
>ends.
>
>It's not like I've never experimented with this stuff. Briefly tried a
>cordalette (hated it), rocked a couple of pre-assembled sliding-x "instant
>double bolt rig" things for a few years too. You can make any method work,
>but I've gone back to rigging with the rope. It's simple, adaptable to
>any situation, as fast or nearly as fast most of the time, don't have to
>carry big lumps of slingage like some bumbly, and you have built in shock
>absorption through the whole system.

When swinging leads there is not much of a reason not to use the rope. When not swinging leads, untying and retying is pretty faffy and involves the use of slings anyway. Why not just use slings to build the belay and coil the rope in a way that won't snag when belaying the other direction?

I carry an extra sling or two - not a special cordelette. That way, I can use them during the pitch if I really need to (coping with the extra faff of a rope made belay) or use them to make the belay at the end.