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Topic Date User

Shockloading is bullshit 1-May-2020 At 2:18:24 PM IdratherbeclimbingM9

Message

>Shockloading is bullshit

No it's not. It's real and can have real consequence/s.

I watched the Youtube video that is linked within the original post; and all I learnt from it (re-affirmed actually, because I already knew somewhat from personal experience), is that these things are usually a matter of degree...
The Youtube vid simply put numbers to the real-life scenarios that it portrayed.

I have taken FF2's on a spectra daisy chain while aid climbing (once twice in quick succession!), and I have also accidentally taken greater than FF2 on a fifi hook during an aid-climbing fall. Neither the daisy, nor the hero loop attaching my fifi broke in those incidents. I did however suffer considerable bruising from my harness at the time/s...

I agree with gordoste in that the primary concern is how secure the gear or belay is under such loading.

Regarding equalisation of belay components, this too is important in mitigating cascade failure of a belay or critical piece of protection... which touches on Olbert's query of;
>I do wonder about holding ability of marginal gear when there is dynamic loading dynamic loading (ie loading with a bit of movement). And then add to that the change in direction of the loading.

Without good equalisation marginal gear WILL rip, though it can often be finessed into acceptable protection by careful attention to equalising potential loads and loading direction/s on the individual components.
~> Cue for egosan to comment here about how his hide was saved by an equalised matrix of a number of very suspect components of protection that were combined into a single unit, during his ascent on one of the Aidfest weekends a while back...

Edit: I was going to put a link to the relevant post of the fifi arrested fall, but my Trip Report (Buffalo Oysters) from it has lost the second half of its content during the subsequent Chockstone hack-attack preventative measures. Disappointingly my backup USB stick containing the original report seems corrupted and won't open...
There is a slim possibility that I have a paper copy of it somewhere, but if that exists I'm unlikely to find it any time soon!

Second Edit:
Here is egosan's TR from March 2010, that also has been shortened by the hack-attack preventative measures, though luckily it still contains his version of the matrix event...
http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?ForumID=2&Action=Display&MessageID=5851&PagePos=0&Sort=
(Further clarification of that matrix by myself is in a following post on that thread).