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Simple rope soloing options
7:17:35 AM
With all the distancing and isolating I'm thinking about climbing options after bouldering gets tired.
What are simple top-rope solo options, and are there any simple lead rope solo options (now the Silent Partner is off the market)? Can it be done with minimal fancy gear or tricky modifications?

8:34:01 AM
Petzel has a page about fixed TR soloing which obviously favours Petzl devices, but you could make intelligent substitutions for other brands:

Lead solo there's a thread somewhere on here with the grigri mod I think? The pictures might have died in the intervening years though.

My memory was it's something like this:

Critical things are a bottom anchor that can take an upwards force and the gri gri maintain orientation.

On the lead rope solo front, M9 probably has a lot of detail on that front, screamers, etc. I'd wait for him to chime in too.
12:40:07 PM
I like a rescuecender (I have the old all-metal one) and CT roll-n-lock for TR solo on a single or double line if I can fix the top of the line. Rescucender on top, held upright with an elastic neckband or such, roll-n-lock is backup.

If I can't fix the line, but there are pull cords to get a rope through the anchor, I'll TR solo on a shunt with backup knots. Less ideal, known issues. Again, hold the shunt up with elastic so there is no impact force on it.

For TR solo a semi-static provides a better experience than a dynamic rope if you intend to rest on the rope or might come off, but you definitely want to be careful not to let any slack build up (elastic to hold device up).

I haven't done any lead solo past self-rescue practice using clove hitches. Wouldn't recommend that unless you have to self-rescue. Some use a grigri, but there are feed issues and definite failure modes. The WC revo seems to be getting more popular.

Check out the Rope Solo Climbing facebook group.

3:49:56 PM
For self belay TR I use a Petzl microcender backed up by a WC rope man.

For self belay aid climbing Iíve successfully used a modified Grigri a-la Bombers thread here:
The Rock Robster
9:34:00 AM
On 25-Mar-2020 ajfclark wrote:
>Lead solo there's a thread somewhere on here with the grigri mod I think?
>The pictures might have died in the intervening years though.
>My memory was it's something like this:

You would be thinking about this:
9:38:02 AM
Iím using two petzl micro traxions for TR solo now.
Have previously just used a gri-gri with a knot tied in high enough off the deck that should gri-gri fail to arrest fall I wouldnít hit ground. I never felt unsafe, itís just painful as it doesnít feed smoothly. Micro traxions much better in that regard, gri-gri better for working a Crux and lowering repeatedly, lowering with traxions a bit more time consuming, especially if not near a bolt or anchor.

Edit: posted earlier on phone

This is essentially the TR setup I use:
I have used it on slab to slightly overhanging routes.

I was also inspired to have a look at some lead solo vids on YouTube - this looks a good system, but have zero experience using it. I may give it a try sometime in the next 6 months :(

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