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Topic Date User

Prusik knot idea 24-Jan-2020 At 3:18:17 PM TimP

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Never tried the Bachmann MrG, it looks interesting, will give it a go.

M9 I'm thinking mainly abseil backup with the 3-wrap Prusik. We also used them in crevasse rescue on the NZ alpine course I just did (escaping belay and the faller ascending). We were lucky to have a supper experienced guide but he was pretty old-school!

Watching people (and myself) fumble with the standard tied loop Prusik — trying to lay it up smooth and fast with gloves on prompted this idea. The big loop coming out of the knot parallel seems to make it easier to get the 3 wraps laid in order and keeps the knot in the right spot.

This loop knot is possibly too complicated to visually check, really just a thought experiment and yes, outdone by the beautifully engineered new devices.

Speaking of newfangled devices on the course I saw a Tibloc being used as progress capture in a hauling system: rotating over the rope as it passed through an oval crab at the anchor. I hadn't seen that before, pretty neat.