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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Poll Option Votes Graph
Gates the same 16
57% 
Gates opposed 4
14% 
I mix em up 6
21% 
I haven't looked 2
7% 
I'm a boulderer 0
 

Topic Date User
Quickdraws: gates opposed or same? 18-Jan-2018 At 12:35:08 PM gordoste
Message
On 18-Jan-2018 gfdonc wrote:
>Article about which way the gates should face on a quickdraw:
>http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en/experience-story?&cid=to-oppose-or-not-quickdraw-
>iners
>
>So what do you do?
>

I climb with gates opposed, because when you have a reachy bolt that is off to the side, it is much easier to clip by pushing the draw against the ring/hanger to open the draw (vs. reaching past the bolt and pulling it back against the hanger). And if the reachy bolt is off to the side, you will be heading that way. It's a pretty thin rationale. Who knows - perhaps it is just based on one long-ago experience struggling to clip a reachy bolt while facing a ground fall. To be honest, I can't remember.

The unclipping in the video is hella scary, but I noticed that the hanger needs to be practically horizontal. Ring bolts are never like that and neither are most hangers (in fact if anyone falls on them wouldn't they rotate away from that position?). Without doing any experiments, it seems the risk involved in opposing gates is pretty darn low.



There are 11 replies to this topic.

 

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