Guess it depends on the specifics of the placement etc
A locking biner might be an improvement, as with a biner over a edge you can tend to get the rock opening the biner, which is weaker. Doesn't really fix everything though, as you could still give it some stresses in ways they aren't designed for.
A better option might be slinging the nut a bit like a chockstone, and clipping the sling. You could even do this simply as a backup to the normal draw. Probably want to be careful if doing this that the way you sling the nut isn't going to spin it around, and dislodge it. |