Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Topic Date User

Silent Partner - the finer points 30-Aug-2016 At 6:07:01 PM Drake

Message

Standard practice for aid soloing (at least in Yosemite), is to climb with two ropes- a dynamic and a static. Both ropes are anchored to anchor #1. Lead on the dynamic, trailing the static. At the next belay, pull up most of the slack in both ropes, and attach both to anchor #2. Abseil on the static; if the pitch was strongly overhung or traversing, you may need to abseil past anchor #1 and then jumar back up to reach it.

Release the haul bag on the static. Prepare to jumar on the dynamic and clean anchor #1. Jumar the pitch, cleaning as you go, and reach anchor #2. Haul the bag, attach it to anchor #2. Repeat.

On straight-up pitches, it's easy to clean on abseil instead, as you say. I dislike cleaning on abseil on anything with even a bit of traversing or overhang, but that's up to you.