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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Topic Date User
outward force on cams when loaded 14-Jun-2015 At 12:07:00 PM lightfoot
Message
I was out climbing in the youyangs the other day on 'things that go bump in the night' at nightfall pinnacles which tackles a short and very sharp loose and hollow exfoliation flake. In placing cams behind the flake I was wondering the relationship between downward forces and outward forces on the cam lobes, so I could gauge the likelihood that IF I fell would the cam pop the flake off.
After a little googling I found this, I'm no mathematician but the simple idea that the outward force is 2 x the downward force seems easy to understand.

http://www.vainokodas.com/climbing/cams.html

In answer I would say that most likely I would have popped the flake off!

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