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Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Topic Date User

Cam failure discussion 27-Apr-2015 At 5:24:34 PM Wendy

Message

On 27/04/2015 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 27/04/2015 Wendy wrote:
>>Common
>>bad cam placements are tipped out, unevenly cammed, in shitty shallow
>flares,
>>not angled to the direction of fall, not extended to minise movement,
>tight
>>on edges where the cams are going to get torqued under load. etc etc.
>
>>sometimes they are from placement in shitty crumbling rock or glassy
>smooth
>>rock.
>
>Ok, that seems like a pretty sensible list.
>
>>Now, as I am not used to removing your cams and thinking thank f--- he
>>didn't fall on that, if you ripped 5 cams out of the start of Erg, I
>might
>>think twice about what was going on there.
>
>I must have a little more faith in the skills of random climbers than
>you do (which is surprising). Clint was apparently a pretty solid climber,
>and you can see in the video that he isn't just poking gear blindly at
>the crack. As far as I remember that crack isn't crumbly or flared, and
>it doesn't look like the cams are super shallow or anything. I think you
>have your head in the sand if you watch that and don't feel that the most
>likely cause is cams slipping out of seemingly good placements due to smooth
>rock.

I promise to go and do it next month and let you know personally if gear should really hold in that crack. I did Wizard of Ice yesterday. White Heat a few days before hand. They are pretty glassy. Gear is still failing to come out with a friendly tug. I'll be getting myself into this bad habit of tugging every cam if I keep this experiment up much longer.