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Topic Date User

Cam failure discussion 27-Apr-2015 At 7:16:47 AM Wendy

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On 26/04/2015 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 23/04/2015 Wendy wrote:
>>People rip gear all the time. Mostly it has
>>to do with bad placement not rock.
>
>What are the attributes of a bad cam placement then?

Ok, for those slow people who can't work out what I'm saying ... Common bad cam placements are tipped out, unevenly cammed, in shitty shallow flares, not angled to the direction of fall, not extended to minise movement, tight on edges where the cams are going to get torqued under load. etc etc.
sometimes they are from placement in shitty crumbling rock or glassy smooth rock.

Whilst it is a bad decision to place a cam in friable or glassy rock if you have any better options, I reckon that most cam failures come from the technical aspects of the placement not the glassiness of the rock. So it's all very well and good to say, look, this guy ripped 5 pieces out of erg, it must be the glassy rock, but it seems more likely to be a series of bad placement decisions.
Now, as I am not used to removing your cams and thinking thank f--- he didn't fall on that, if you ripped 5 cams out of the start of Erg, I might think twice about what was going on there.