Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop
Chockstone Photography
Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Topic Date User
Cam failure discussion 24-Apr-2015 At 1:28:58 PM patto
Message
On 24/04/2015 Macciza wrote:
>Cant agree Patto - look at the equations at the end of the standard cam
>models for parallel vs flared cracks. As the flare approaches the cam angle
>more friction is require to hold it .
That is not what the equations suggest. In all cases tan(α) < μ is the friction requirement.

>Where do you get the 2x figure from?
The total flare of a crack is 2x β.

>Are you suggesting that deformation is the main reason cams fail in flared
>cracks?
The maths shows that in ultra flared cracks when β > α no grip initiates the cam doesn't hold at all in fact spring pressure will probably push the cam out! When α < β and friction is good {tan(α) < μ} then the cam will hold on placement. However lobe compression reduces the contact and can result in placement failure.

>Back on topic, some of the variables for a cam to hold include the angle
>of the cam, and the material that the cams are made from (and finish etc),
>This will account for varying results for different brands in identical
>conditions. Different materials and finishes have different frictional,
>compressive and shear strengths, as do the rock they are placed in. Basically
>BrandX may work perfectly well where BrandY would simply fail.
>These factors may account for much of the variance between peoples experience.
That doesn't say much. Why back away from objective statements towards subjective?

Going back to the mathematics, bigger cam angels are better for flares but are worse for glassy cracks. This is why aliens are so good in high frictiion granite, along with softer lobes they hold flares well. Totems combines the advantages of outward force (grip) along with good flare behaviour.

There are 65 replies to this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Landscape Photos Australia

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | High Country Mountain Huts | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints