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Cam failure discussion 22-Apr-2015 At 10:26:03 AM tris

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>Just run a few examples by me again? I can't remember ever actually taking
>a big winger at Frog, but this theory about friction apparantly applies
>regardless of the force. If it's going to go, it'll go with a tug as much
>as a fall. Which I assume is the reason for thinking a tug is a somehow
>sufficient test as well. In the light of that, I have slumped onto plenty
>of gear at Frog. None of them moved.

One example is Erg (direct start). There have been a number of cams pulled on this climb resulting in ground falls (have a look at youtube for proof).

This climb has rock that is quite polished down low. You probably won't find out until you take a fall as I am not sure if you can get into a good enough position to give the cam a solid tug during the start moves. You could lower down and give it a good test.

In the video from the original thread, it looks like the guy gave the cam a really solid tug. When I am setting/testing cams, I don't think I pull on them that hard (and I am not sure if this is hard enough to completely "test" the camming action). Surely there is a level of force involved that would overcome the little amount of friction present in slick rock which is less than that of bodyweight or a fall?