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Cam failure discussion 21-Apr-2015 At 6:44:11 PM Wendy

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On 21/04/2015 Macciza wrote:
>Like I said 'semantics' ....
>Setting a wire means giving it a tug to get it to grip in the right place
>and not move about ...
>Setting a cam means making sure the lobes are well placed, balanced, etc
>and its in the right place ...

These are two different things! Damo is on my wave length. I set wires all the time. Not because I need to test them or adjust them or make sure it's in the right place, but to wedge it in there so it won't flick out as I climb past it. And no, I am not a great welder. Not for lack of trying sometimes, but lack of mass. Following some more substantial friends up routes, when 90kg of climber sets a wire, it's pretty well set.

What you call "setting" a cam is what I call simply "placing" a cam. It involves a good look, sometimes an adjustment, not usually a tug. Tugging a cam you know is in a good spot is pointless.