Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Topic Date User

Carabiner loading 2-Mar-2015 At 11:21:06 AM kieranl

Message

On 2/03/2015 tooclimb wrote:
>From your response you seem to think that coaxial loading doesn't happen
>in your rigs.

I have no idea why you thought to say that. In one post I say something about how at times in climbing we all have to break the rules.

>It does in mine. If you have two ropes in a binner how can it be avoided?
>
Strictly you can't but I would tend to use figure-8s to keep the load as close to the spine as possible rather than clove hitches in those circumstances. Using a HMS krab is also a good idea.

> I'm trying to establish is it safe or not as my rigs often have two ropes,
>or slings, or sling and rope, that potential could & do cause it.
>
>Please note that I wont be compromising anyone's safety.
>

If you're often building anchors with triaxial loading then you probably should be looking at your systems and finding ways to avoid it or properly deal with it.

No-one is going to say it's "safe" if the manufacturers don't approve of it, which is what you seem to be after. If you're recreational climbing you can look at the unofficial test results and decide what to do. If someone's paying you to rig belays then you should follow the manufacturer's instructions.