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Carabiner loading 27-Feb-2015 At 12:19:10 PM Dave_S

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It should be noted that multiplication of forces when you have two anchors that oppose each other to a degree (as in the diagram above) is far from the only reason why tri-axial loading is bad. You still get that multiplication of forces on the anchors even if you avoid it by knotting your slings before clipping them to the carabiner in question.

The main problem is that HMS and D-shaped carabiner are designed so that whatever is attached to each end of the carabiner gets pushed right up against the spine, which means the spine takes most of the load and the gate side takes very little, allowing manufacturers to avoid having to make the gate as strong as the spine, which would be difficult and/or result in a heavy carabiner. When you tri-axially load a carabiner, you are forcing one of the loads into the corner on the gate side, so that the gate side takes more of the load than the carabiner was designed for. It also adds an element of cross-loading, because of the two anchors pulling against each other along the shortest side of the carabiner.