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Topic Date User
TR Self belay backup options 18-Feb-2015 At 5:26:45 PM White Trash
On 28/01/2015 lightfoot wrote:
>Hi folks, I've been Top rope self belaying for a little while now and wanted
>opinions on back up options. I'm mainly in the you yangs so short climbs
>after work etc so my setup at the moment is as follows:
>- Set the anchors, master point/padding etc.
>- Tie two fig 8's in my 10.2 mm dydnamic line with isolation between them
>roughly mid point of rope (usually leave one end longer for knots if
>using them)
>- Drop the mainline line down the climb.
>- The backup line I tie alpine butterflys in every arm span or so then
>drop that down.
>- ABCDE check and rap down main line
>- weight the main line with rope coils/bag/shoes etc
>- Set up my petzl mini traxion on the main line using gridlock biner and
>chest harness to keep it orientated correctly upward
>- Using twin cowstails (Purcell prussiks 7mm cord) with twistlocks on
>the end connected to a mallion rigged the same as my belay loop I begin
>climbing. I use the mallion as it declutters my belay loop.
>- As I reach a knot I clip it with the cowtail and when the next one is
>reached clip that and unclip the previous.
>- Climb and repeat.....
>I find this setup works well with one rope as long as the climb is less
>than 25m long (easy in the youies!) The knots are a little time consuming
>and I'd like to use my gri gri 2 on the backup line and wondered what you
>guys think of that as an option. Obviously I'd be pulling slack through
>it every few moves and not expecting it to feed smoothly like the trax.
>This way I'd just reach the top, flick the cam off the trax and rap straight
>down the backup line still on the gri gri and get more laps in.
>I know people use microscenders and twin traxions but I'm specifically
>interested in the gri gri option as it means I don't need to buy any more
>gear and allows the quick rap.
>I'm doing this mainly to practice aiding without pissing a belayer off!
>I also really like just getting lots of laps in quickly after work.
>Any thoughts appreciated?? Cheers
use 3 daiseys instead of 2

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