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Sliding X revisited 2-Feb-2015 At 3:18:21 PM BBSR

Message

> With
>something like 8mm cord the load on each side of the X (the load split)
>is 65%/35% and a dyneema sling ca 60%/40%.
>The quad was developed to remove the wrap of the X and reduce the friction
>but it isn´t hugely better really (8mm cord 62/38, 10mm Dyneema 58/42).

Interesting to see the numbers, I would have thought the difference from removing the wrap would have been much higher. Perhaps we need to use those revolver draws with bearings in them = )

When I 'researched' this a long while back, I seem to remember one of the more interesting things was John Long suggesting that perhaps in hindsight he put too much emphasis on SERENE Anchors, which can tend to take emphasis away from other considerations. For example, it may make sense to put the anchor somewhere than enables a low risk ascent to a bomber jesus nut, and it may be worth sacrificing some of SERENE to get to do it. Total anchor failure (or belay failure) is more likely when a leader falls directly on to the Anchor, creating factor 2ish forces, so perhaps protecting the anchor from this is as important as making the anchor itself as strong and perfectly equalised as possible.