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Topic Date User

Sliding X revisited 31-Jan-2015 At 10:51:28 PM Jim Titt

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On 28/01/2015 Dave_S wrote:
>
>Incorrect. The only degree to which magnitude of load on the anchors can
>differ with a sliding-X is due to friction between the carabiner and sling,
>which is negligible in comparison with the load force. The carabiner simply
>cannot exert force on one end of the sling more than the other, which would
>be required in order for different magnitudes of force to be placed on
>the anchors. The only way in which forces on the anchors can differ is
>in direction.
>

The friction isn´t negligable, it´s roughly 1/3rd of the load force. With something like 8mm cord the load on each side of the X (the load split) is 65%/35% and a dyneema sling ca 60%/40%.
The quad was developed to remove the wrap of the X and reduce the friction but it isn´t hugely better really (8mm cord 62/38, 10mm Dyneema 58/42).