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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Topic Date User
Sliding X revisited 27-Jan-2015 At 12:51:01 PM Dave_S
Message
There was something similar proposed a while back, after the release of John Long's Climbing Anchors 2nd Ed, but as a belay anchor system rather than something for equalising marginal gear placements.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=1329483

Personally, I'm not massively keen on the use of the X for protection, just because it's fiddly to set up. If I'm in a position where I'd want two pieces of gear right next to each other (because they were poor placements or I was protecting a crux), then I'd rather have the speed and convenience of just clipping quickdraws and settle for redundancy without perfect equalisation. This way, I'm getting my rope though at least one piece as soon as possible, rather than not being able to clip the rope until the X is set up. (Although you could always clip a quickdraw to one piece, set up the X, and then remove the quickdraw.)

That said, a (redundant) sliding X is my standard anchor for bolts, because there it is very convenient to set up.

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