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Replacing nuts with knots 3-Apr-2014 At 2:11:00 PM Superstu

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I climbed on a rack of tied knots in East Germany. Google climbing in the elbesandsteingebirge and there should be heaps on the various knots to tie. You could buy ready prepared sling knot racks in the climbing shop in bad schandau!

You weren't allowed to use any cams or nuts but spaced giant mother of all ring bolts you could put your arm into were ok. Just weird.

One thing I do remember was the rock was kind of weirdly suited to this silliness with knots. The sandstone formed lots of scoopy holes in the crack lines so a knot ball wedged in one kind of made sense. There were also lots of "sand uhrs" ... Wine glass shaped threads to tie off.

The rock was soft and you weren't allowed to climb after it rained. I think the soft rock was partly the reason for the knot system, nuts and cams would have damaged it. Food for thought.

I doubt the arapiles sinker nut placement will be particularly welcoming to knot pro, but I gather routes like bard were put up with nothing more than a few slings as pro.