On 5/02/2014 Wendy wrote:
>>Really, no one's playing. But I would be setting up a lot of hanging belays
>if you made me lead those on 20 pieces. Nice of you to confirm my point
>that big cams are more useful than RPs for Blueys and Pt Perp. There's
>a few a pt perp I don't know, but f---, what rock there would be good enough
>to hold an rp anyway? I can't see a single route I would take RPs up and
>about 8 I would take at least a 4 camalot if not several or something larger.
Agreed.
>
>Playing a similar game at Araps, I don't seem to need RPs an only of these
>either.
>
>Agamemnon, Muldoon, D Minor, Tannin, Beautiful Possibilities, Mari, Thunder
>Crack, Morphydd, Euridice, Resignation, Oceanoid, Touchstone, Lamlighter,
>Christian Crack, Arachnus, Watchtower Crack, Entertainer
>
I haven't done all of those but for the ones I have, agreed.
>I'd definitely take more wires on that selection than the Blue Mtns selection.
>I could probably give you a piece by piece run down of most of them, but
>I'm not that bored yet. Something like 1-8 with doubles on 3-7, with .5,
>.75x2, 1x2, 2 camalots and special piece that varied for each route, ie
>a 5 or 6 cam for watchtower and purple c3 for thunder crack. I'd probably
>still have to set up hanging belays in a few of those routes. I did tannin
>yesterday and had 22 pieces in it and thought I'd been quite reasonable!
>
>My standard rack at the moment is a complete double set of rocks, 2 rps,
>double set of link cams, blue camalot, green, yellow, grey, red aliens,
>green and purple c3. You can see why 20 pieces just doesn't cut it.
>
You don't seriously carry doubles in sizes 12-14, or carry them at all? I could accept that if you meant classic rocks. |