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Wave Bolts 15-Dec-2013 At 3:32:57 AM Jim Titt

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Neither Chris nor myself are certifying our bolts without glue for falls, just giving the sort of holding power you MIGHT get if you load one before the glue sets. Unhardened mortar may well be sufficient lubrication to significantly reduce the holding power. The rock used in the testing makes a considerable difference as well making a direct comparison difficult anyway.
The idea is to provide a bolt which can be set in overhanging rock without falling out before the glue sets or doesn´t move when you jumar past it and kick it with your foot. Lead bolting with glue-ins is fundamentally a crap job anyway, gives compromised bolt positions and increases the chances of gluing badly, I usually aid the route in sections, abseil and drill and glue properly.