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Topic Date User

set routes with colored tape, not colored holds 29-Sep-2005 At 9:36:48 PM JBM

Message

I came from a gym in the US that used colored tape for route setting. Actually, at the time (2002) most
gyms used this method on the East Coast (West Coast had already shifted to colored holds).

The tape method is absolute sh*t house. The problem with the tape is 3 fold:

1) It gets kicked off through wear and tear
2) You can't see the tape if you are above/below the hold depending on where the tape has been
placed
3) It makes the wall(s) look like crap

Tape is a good method for changing routes frequently - you can leave the holds up and just change the
usage/availability of them (eg you can convert a 5.8 to a 5.12: 16 to a 24 pretty quick) however, the
draw backs for the user/climber outweigh these benefits.

I reckon you guys have got it right here with the same-colored holds. My only suggestion (as a red/
green color blind individual) is to carefully consider what colors you mix (eg multiple routes on a single
rope) and to make sure you have adequate lighting.

I reckon mixing yellow and light green or brown and purple coupled with crappy lighting adds about 3
grades to a climb. I end up missing about half the holds!!!!