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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Topic Date User
Petzl Roc Pec Hand Drill 1-Aug-2013 At 5:59:14 PM Dr Nick
Message
Maybe I'm weird, but my approach is kind of half and half. I rap down something that looks reasonable, then "climb" it on a Grigri and toprope, generally in bolting boots, pulling madly on the rope/ascender/wall/whatever. That gives me a reasonable idea whether it'll go, and I can follow the climber's line even if I'm not really climbing it. You also get the chance to find the nice clipping stances, and use them. A stick of chalk can help to mark likely bolt holes, or drill as you go.

I then rap back down and actually place the bolts in a single push, so the glue doesn't go off in the nozzle/mixing cup.

It's a fairly slow way to do it, but you get the advantages of being able to drill from a rope as well as a feel for how the route will go. I've certainly changed my mind about where they go before as a result of trying it off the rope.

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