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Topic Date User
Petzl Roc Pec Hand Drill 30-Jul-2013 At 10:11:20 PM sliamese
top down generally creates better routes i think. cleaner with bolts more carefully thought out and less aid holes etc. most ground up things that are hard are effectively aided on smaller removable bolts, as seen in this video

euro's like the removal bolts that are basically a round ball nut, they seemed shit to me! a 10x40mm dynabolt is much easier to remove. the hot tip is use a 'lucky' (brand) hanger as they have exactly 10mm hole so they grip the sleeve of the bolt easily. most other brand hangers have a 10.5mm hole or so. you could easily make your own for that purpose too.

i dont know how your czech is but this is an impressive video of adam ondra bolting 9a on lead, not resting on the rope etc. I remember seeing another video of Beat Kammerlander on an 8b+ in perhaps the Ratikon? pretty awesome stuff!!

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