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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found
Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.
Topic
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Date |
User
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impulse force on cams |
12-Sep-2005 At 3:36:31 PM |
shiltz
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Message |
I wanted to simplify the problem. There are forces acting on the cam during the first 10m of the fall but these would be difficult to calculate as they depend on the tragectory of the climber and rope. I've simplified the problem by only considering the forces once the rope starts to "catch the climber".
Final force of 0.8kN is one 80kg climber hanging under gravity with the assumption that the belayer is standing on the ground.
I made an arbitrary choice of 15m so I had a "fall factor" to work with. If you select a different fall factor you'll get a different answer.
The peak force is close to 8kN according to the Petzl Simulator.
Used: 80kg climber, 10.5mm single rope, belay 12mm boltsx2, first & second running belay = none, third running belay = friend at 15m, you fall 20m, gri-gri for belay device. |
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