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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

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Topic Date User

Extending quickdraws and cam slings 27-Jul-2012 At 2:18:28 PM muki

Message

On 27/07/2012 gfdonc wrote:
>I think it is somewhere between being cautious and a myth.
>
>Common practice when I started climbing (before Forrest invented quickdraws,
>can you imagine?) was to clip wires with two biners if they were in line
>with the direction you were climbing. Or with krabs. Whatever.
>
>Ditto for bolts.
>
>I never saw or heard of one unclipping due to biner on biner. However
>I have seen a single biner unclip itself when gear popped (search my posts
>for a description) due to a 'twang' on the line.
>
>ymmv.

way back when clipping wires directly with biners was common it was also common to find that the biners were ovals, as apposed to the offset shapes that are common today.
the offset shape is unfortunately possible to load in leverage that results in failure.
to see evidence of this look for a post about a ring bolt on Taipan snapping a biner.