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Topic Date User

Comments sought on natural anchor design 26-Jul-2012 At 4:21:22 AM pmonks

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On 25/07/2012 muki wrote:
>I would stick with a totally static system

I wouldn't - even short slumps on a static rope can generate dangerous loads on your body and the anchors.

> no dynamic elements such as your dynamic rope anchor,

I do agree with not using a dynamic rope in the anchor system though. I use a 15m static rope for the anchor, with the tie-in points for the dynamic rope hanging over the top of the climb. For overhanging climbs this means the dynamic rope (which is what I'm clipped into and my ascenders are running up) isn't touching the rock at all. Best of both worlds.

>as this can lead to the stretch that allows the
>part of the system that runs over the edge to rub, and that friction causing
>wear and tear damage, edge protectors or rope protectors are critical,
>you don't mention using any ?

I use rope protectors, typically wrapped around the static anchor rope since it's the rope that's running over edges, not the dynamic that I'm clipped to.

Here's a high quality engineering diagram of my setup:

The only potential problem with this setup is that I'm using the same device on each strand of the rope. I'd originally tried using a grigri on one of the strands, but having to stop every other move to feed rope through the device sucked.