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Topic Date User

Comments sought on natural anchor design 24-Jul-2012 At 11:55:19 AM Tim_1964

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Hi all, after extensive efforts I often find myself without a climbing partner using a self belay rig on smaller climbs (really just scaling up from bouldering). I am seeking comment on my anchor design - as follows:

1. Use 3 large rocks or trees
2. Place a sling around each
3. Clip a screwgate to each
4. With my dynamic rope tie a clove hitch to the first screwgate
5. After the clove hitch feed say 3m of rope out, then tie a figure 8 knot
6. Anchor X is now complete using a single strand of the rope

7. Feed 4m of rope after the F8 knot as this will be slack and non weight bearing
8. After 4m of feed, make a clove hitch on the second anchor
9. Repeat 5, 6, 7

Each anchor is therefore a single strand of dynamic rope with a F8 knot on the end
This will create 3 anchors with 3 F8 knots available to tie the main rope into (rope 2)
(I could use a single overhand rather than 3 F8 knots)

Clip 2 opposing screwgates into the 3 F8 knots
Equalise the length by adjusting the clove hitches
Tie the main rope into the 2 opposing screwgates with a figure 8 on a bight and toss it down the climb line.

From the bottom I clip in a petzel croll ascender backed up by 2 prussik loops and I am ready to climb. At this stage I am testing the rig and I check the croll and the prussiks before each move. I ensure that the croll is clean and clipped and that the prussiks will not feed into the croll. I have clocked up 10 hours on the rig with no significant issues. There is no fall factor and I use a static rope for the main rope (as the technique is more SRT than Lead)

I could run a second main rope with another croll and prussiks (to conform with industrial rope access standards) but this does not seem necessary at this stage.

Comments welcome.

Thanks

Tim