On 2/06/2012 ARidgley wrote:
>I think Spelean did quite a lot of testing of knots, mainly static, during
>the 80's. This is from memory and Dr Law may know better, but if my memory
>serves me correctly, the humble bowline breaks well below 50% (maybe as
>low as 35%). The Alpine Butterfly is not much better and should be avoided
>at all costs too. A Figure 8 is indeed up there at around 80% or more
>with the best knot being a Figure 9 at above 90%.
...and how many climbing ropes would you estimate break because of poor knot selection in Australia each year? |