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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found
Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.
Topic
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Date |
User
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More acid rope testing |
31-May-2012 At 1:05:41 PM |
pecheur
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Message |
On 31/05/2012 Olbert wrote:
>On 31/05/2012 mikllaw wrote:
>>Lots of stuff and mentioned the 'bowline effect'
>
>What is the 'bowline' effect? Is it the effect of reducing the breaking
>strength of a rope because of the bowline knot? If so, is there a corrasponding
>'figure 8' effect?
>
>The strong ropes broke at ~12kN, this seems very low. Is this what a
>real rope out in a real climbing situation would break at? If I go for
>a big factor 2 whipper on a bowline, am I going to generate enough force
>to potentially break my rope (assuming nothing else breaks) ?
Depends how much of a lard arse you are:
http://wallrat.com/PDF_Files/forcesinleadfalls.pdf
Hard to get a true factor 2 though, would require no slack in system and a grigri etc. Any passive device will give a useful amount of slip.
PS Some manufacturers recommend you retire your rope after any factor 2 fall. |
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