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Topic Date User

directional gear 4-May-2012 At 8:52:38 AM will5686

Message

On 4/05/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>Look, it would be nice if life were that simple, but it isn't. Some nut
>placements are multidirectional, some cam placements aren't.

Good advice, but cams are one the hardest bits of pro for me to get my head aroun, and I can't find any info on google about which placements should be multi directional.

At any point on a route, the only
>gear which will keep you unsmushed is the gear which is above the halfway
>point between you and the ground. For example, if you are 30m up on a pitch,
>any gear below 15m won't directly keep you off the deck

Surely the situation is even worse than this because of the significant amount of stretch in a dynamic rope.

>
>The following needs diagrams, but I'll try without.

You did a pretty good job, thanks.

. In order to avoid unzippage, it helps
>to place a multidirectional piece at the point(s) on the route where the
>rope will change direction.

I didn't know this. In fact I generally try to avoid the rope changing direction, using fairly long slings. But I can see how this can't be avoided sometimes, and will look to placing a multidirectional piece there in future.

>Knowing what's going on, and how shit works, is the prudent option.

Too true. But on the other hand it is complex, so having some simple guidelines that apply to most climbs is a helpful option. I also generally try to climb with people who know more than me, and I always make a point of asking them for explicit instruction. Although checking their advice with other sources later is also sensible.