>
>Note my first post, where I mentioned that if I'm climbing with some useless
>saggy lump, I belay with a gri gri on the anchor (so that I can nod off
>while they're busy wasting my time).
>
>I think we can safely assume that if your climbing partner became exhausted
>after getting entangled in a fixed rope at araps (rather than on the Hillary
>Step, a more popular location for that little trick), they were a pretty
>shit climber.
>
>Strictly speaking, if one person leads all the pitches (and especially
>if they lead them clean and fast), while the second creeps and slumps and
>"takes" all over the place, then it's more like unpaid guiding than proper
>climbing. I pity the fool who does most of their climbing in 'guide mode'!
Yep you are right. My eight year old daughter was a pretty shit climber at the time, and it was like climbing in guide mode except that I was a pretty shit guide for letting the ropes get so ballsed up, so not worth being paid anything. At least I hadn't taught her to call 'take' at the time - she just screamed and cried when she took a two meter fall. More fool me.
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