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Topic Date User

trad + grigri 2-Mar-2012 At 5:27:07 PM Linze

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On 2/03/2012 mikllaw wrote:
>On 29/02/2012 Linze wrote:
>>lets settle it with a challenge. if any of the "you should review your
>>belay technique"ers can sucessfully stop a singificantly heavier climber
>>falling off the crux clip on attack mode from touching the ground,say,
>>three times on the trot, i will buy you a number 6 camalot...
>
>I saw Ness belaying Rob Hodyl on Bryzance at Hartley vale rd, the first
>bolt is at 3m and you clip the second with your feet at the first. Rob
>climbed up till the second bolt was at his knees and started wobbling.
>He reached down to grab the draw as he fell. Ness noticed that he was now
>holding the draw in his hand and stepped back and took in. He landed about
>100 mm off the deck. Nice catch. Rob was sure the bolt had failed, but
>then noticed it was still there and he'd unclipped it as he grabbed it.
>She had the advantage of being on the edge of a step so she could step
>down as she took in, she was using a belay plate. A grigri woudl have worked
>ok too.
>
respect indeed... a (far heavier) climbing partner and i once decided that a ground fall was a good chance there and stick clipped the second (but still claimed the send even though clipping was probably the crux). That was before my recklessness became the modus operandi of my climbing life... ;)

fun route btw, wish it were longer...