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Topic Date User
trad + grigri 29-Feb-2012 At 5:06:44 PM climbau
On 29/02/2012 Linze wrote:
>On 29/02/2012 climbau wrote:
>i think ODH's earlier response deals with 'rules' pretty satsifactorally...
One persons rules are not necessarily another persons methods.

>safety shouldnt be black and white, but dependent on your assessment of
>the complex interaction of factors at a point in time.
> stopping to clip
>a bolt is not nessesarily safer than punching through to easier ground.
And that is a decision that has to be made on a case-by-case basis
>maybe the placer of the bolt got it wrong...
Indeed, and now it is up to others to either accept it, or fix it.

Stop focusing on the individual and look at the system along with the interchangeable components.
You have asked a general question, deal with the general advice.
If you are looking for a solution to skipping a particular clip on Attack Mode without having the risk of hitting the deck, then a) find another climb, b) man up and eat dirt, c) get a heavier belayer, d) pre-clip the "unclippable", e) choose another route, f) ask the FA if you can adjust the bolt position. I am sure there are many more options.
If you are asking for another person to justify your use of a device/method/tactic in an inappropriate situation, don't complain when others don't accept your BS.
If you are innocently asking for advice on a general issue involving a general set of circumstances, then accept the answers are going to be of a generalised nature and get off the (perceived) defensive high-horse whilst quoting specific routes and situations and issuing silly BS challenges. Oh hey, you could also use your own judgement and experience to substitute relevant components of the system with more appropriate ones. If you know better, then take the risk and stop shirking your responsibilities.
And if my post seems a little sarcastic and frustrated, you'd be right. Nobody was being rude, demeaning or otherwise until you decided your ego was more important than the learning experience. You asked a question because you were trying to avoid hitting the ground, but now you are defending the decision to hit the ground and also blaming others for your own choices/decisions.
C'mon Linze, I'm sure your just having a moment and will realise that others have just tried to be helpful and work with the info given.
*Thread Edit*
Yes, you can use a GriGri for Trad Climbing.

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